Une première cuvée extra au Moulin de Fabi
Par Christian Aniort,
Elle parle presque de ses oliviers et de son moulin à huile comme d’un rêve de petite fille. Sur le territoire communal de Floure, au bord de la route départementale 9113, « Le Moulin de Fabi » est appelé à devenir une halte gourmande. Ici, depuis quelques mois, Fabienne Fontes produit, transforme et commercialise ses olives. Une curiosité qui n’a rien de folklorique au beau milieu d’un territoire consacré à la vigne et au vin, entre Corbières et Minervois.
À quelques encablures de là, sur une propriété familiale de 22 hectares autrefois dédiée à la viticulture, la famille Fontes a planté 7 500 arbres. « Au bout de la cinquième année l’oliveraie a commencé à produire. J’ai attendu deux ans de plus pour passer à une phase active et développer l’outil économique auquel je songeai », raconte Fabienne Fontes. Une jeune femme pleine d’allant, adepte du principe « là où il y a une volonté, il y a un chemin », qui ne regrette pas de s’être lancée dans une aventure sans garantie au départ.
Olives, Olives, And More Olives…
There are a sheer dizzying array of olives available on the market these days. And if you think there are just green olives and black olives, you're right, but think again – it certainly is not that simple. The different olives from different parts are completely different in every way.
In the Italian riviera you will find the Ligurian olives. They are black, high in oil content and have a gentle sweet flavor. Another Italian olive is the Taggiasca. It is a small olive. In the south of Italy you will find the Gaeta, which is purplish brown colored. They make an excellent addition to any pizza. The Cerignola are large green olives, grown near Bari. They are also good on pizzas, or just as an appetizing snack.
In France you will find the Nicoise olive. They have a unique flavor despite their small size. A number of regional dishes in France depend on them. The Nyons olive is little known outside of the olive world. Mainly because they are hard to locate. They are regarded by many to be the tastiest olive around. The Picholine is an uncracked green olive. They have a nutty flavor with a suggestion if anise. They are well suited for cooking.
In Spain you will find the Gordal. This is a big fat green olive, very common in the south. The Manzanilla is a cracked brownish green olive with a slight nutty flavor, and the Arbequinas are small brown olives from the northeast of the country. Farga Aragon are black, almond-shaped and sweet. Their taste is distinctive and very succulent.
The Greeks have the Kalamatas, an olive with a blackish purple color. The Amfissa has the same color, but is sweet and smooth. The Thasos have a kind of meaty flavor, and the Nafplion, a green olive, has a nutty, almost a smoked flavor.
There are many other types of olives to be found, but these will at least give you a flavor of what is available. The bet way to get a flavor of olives, however, is to actually eat them!
Lodi olive oil ads lure winegrape growers
Pic by Michael McCollum,
Aricle by Reed Fujii,
LODI – Winegrapes are a $200 million-a-year business in San Joaquin County. But now a series of newspaper ads, touting better profits for olive oil, is asking Lodi-area growers to consider replacing their vineyards.
The aim is to roughly double the acreage of olives grown in “super-high-density” plantings of 680 trees per acre and trained to trellises, a system that allows growers to produce very heavy crops and harvest by machine to avoid the high cost of traditional hand harvesting.
“We are looking in the neighborhood of an additional 1,500 acres,” said Jeff Colombini, president of Lodi Farming Co. A sister company, Corto Olive Co., recently established a mill in Lodi to process the olives into oil.
“The main reason why is we feel we need a minimum quality of olive oil to be effective in the marketplace,” he said. “We need more oil, which means we need more olives, which means we need more growers.”
U.S. demand for olive oil poses a great opportunity for California growers, Colombini said.
“There’s 70 million gallons of olive oil consumed in this country and 99.5 percent are produced outside of this country,” he said. “For California to produce all of the United State’s domestic consumption, we would have to have, in full production today, 350,000 acres of super-high-density olives.”
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Olive Oil – Not Just A Food
We all know how great olive oil – especially extra virgin olive oil – is. But there are a great many uses for this wonderful fruit oil that many people are completely unaware of. Here are a few…
Olive oil is a great hair tonic as well as a great hair conditioner. A drop or two on the palm of one hand, then both hands rubbed together before applying gently to the hair does wonders. This is especially good for frizzy hair too. You hair will thrive on this recipe if you do it on a daily basis. And your hair will look great too!
Do you need lip balm? A little olive oil melted along with some beeswax in a small tin becomes a great lip balm when it cools and solidifies. Pure olive oil will also help remove make up very efficiently. And for men who are looking for an unusual, but surprisingly good shaving "cream," just use some olive oil.
After all that bodily preparations you will be in need of some refreshment. Crush some garlic, mix with aome butter and add a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil. Then make some garlic bread and enjoy!
Different olive oils have different uses
By Bev Bennett,
Gold, olive green, citrine: all colors of olive oils. When you’re reaching for oil to use in a salad dressing or for cooking, color isn’t the most important consideration.
Instead, you want oil that’s appropriate to your dish, says Alessio Carli, who makes olive oil and wine for Pietra Santa Winery near Monterey Bay in California.
Mr. Carli suggests treating your olive oil selections as you do your wines. Read the label to determine whether the oil’s flavor and cooking qualities are suited to your dish.
For example, if the label describes an oil that’s pungent, spicy and peppery, that’s the oil you’ll want to dress a salad or to brush over a piece of bread for bruschetta. A blended olive oil, which has a softer taste, is better suited for cooking. When preparing turkey or pork cutlets, add a little blended olive oil to the skillet.
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