How to Marinate Olives (and Make Them Yours)

Plain brined olives are a blank canvas. Twenty minutes of warming with the right aromatics turns a supermarket jar into something people ask you about. Here is the method, not just a recipe.
The deli charges a premium for “marinated” olives that started life in the same plain tins as the cheap ones. The difference is ten minutes of gentle warmth and a few aromatics — and you can do it better at home.
The method
Drain a jar of decent olives — mixed green and black, or a good Castelvetrano for mild, a Kalamata for bold. Warm them gently in good olive oil (do not fry) with a few of these: cracked garlic, strips of orange or lemon peel, fennel seed, bay, a sprig of rosemary or thyme, a pinch of chilli, a splash of red-wine vinegar. Ten minutes on a low heat, then let them sit and drink it in for an hour — or a day.
First, citrus peel — the single ingredient that makes home-marinated olives taste expensive. Second, warm, don’t cook: gentle heat releases the aromatics into the oil without turning the olives to mush. Keep them in that flavoured oil in the fridge and they only get better over a week.
Serve at room temperature with bread to mop the oil. The leftover oil, by the way, is now olive-and-citrus oil — use it on a salad and waste nothing.