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Itrana Olives — illustration

Itrana Olives

L’olive à double usage du Latium — confite mûre, elle devient la célèbre olive de Gaeta.

The Itrana is the olive of southern Lazio, around Itri and the Pontine hills — and another fine example of one cultivar wearing several famous names. Cured ripe and dark, it becomes the celebrated Gaeta table olive ; picked very late and pale, it is sold as the oliva bianca ; and pressed, it gives a fresh, fruity, well-balanced oil. Genuinely versatile, and protected in its region.

Origin
Lazio (Itri/Pontine) · Italy
Type
Table & oil
Colour
Green to black
Cured ripe as
Gaeta olive
Flavour (oil)
Fresh, fruity, balanced
Note
Same cultivar as Gaeta
Best for
Table olives and oil

One cultivar, several names

Like the Nocellara/Castelvetrano story in Sicily, the Itrana shows how olive names follow preparation and place. The Itrana is the variety. Cured ripe, it is the soft, mild, purple-black olive most of the world knows as Gaeta. Picked unusually late, it makes a pale, mild “white” olive. And much of the crop simply goes to the press for a fresh, fruity oil under the Colline Pontine designation.

What the sellers don’t tell you

Because “Gaeta” is famous and loosely used, some “Gaeta” olives abroad are not the real Itrana from Lazio but cheaper dark olives cured to imitate the style. The genuine article is the Itrana cultivar from its protected region. See the Gaeta page for the full story.

Substitutes

GaetaThe same olive, cured ripe — the table version.
NyonsA soft, sweet French black olive.
TaggiascaSmall, sweet and mild, for a similar gentle character.
In the kitchen: the soft black Gaeta of a good puttanesca or an antipasto, or a fresh Lazio oil for everyday cooking.