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Picholine Marocaine (Beldi) — illustration

Picholine Marocaine (Beldi)

La variété qui couvre presque tout le Maroc — olive de table verte, Beldi noire confite à sec, et huile corsée.

The Picholine Marocaine — despite the French-sounding name, a distinct Moroccan variety — is the olive of Morocco, planted across the overwhelming majority of the country’s groves. It is impressively versatile: picked green it gives the firm Moroccan green table olive ; ripened and dry-salt-cured it becomes the wrinkled black Beldi ; and pressed it yields a robust, fruity oil. One variety doing nearly every job a country needs.

Origin
Morocco (nationwide)
Also called
Beldi (dry-cured form)
Type
Table & oil
Colour
Green or black
Flavour
Robust, fruity, savoury
Speciality
Dry-cured black Beldi
Best for
Table olives, oil, tagines

One olive, a whole cuisine

Moroccan cooking leans on olives — in tagines, with preserved lemon, on every table — and almost all of them are this one variety in one form or another. Cured green and cracked, it is firm and savoury ; left to ripen and packed in salt, it shrivels into the intense, chewy black Beldi ; pressed, it gives a full-flavoured, fruity oil. Few varieties carry a national cuisine so completely.

Worth knowing

The dry-salt-cured Beldi is meant to be wrinkled, dark and intense — that shrivelled look is the style, not spoilage, much like the Greek Throuba. Moroccan oil, long exported in bulk, is increasingly bottled under its own name and worth trying. Look for “Picholine Marocaine” or a named Moroccan estate.

Substitutes

Throuba ThassosThe Greek tree-ripened, dry-cured black olive.
PicholineThe French green olive it is named after (a different variety).
KalamataFor a bolder brined black olive in cooking.
In the kitchen: green and cracked with bread and oil, or the dry-cured black Beldi in a chicken-and-preserved-lemon tagine — the savoury heart of Moroccan food.