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Dry-Salt Cured Olives: The Wrinkled Kind

Olives being processed

Those intense, wrinkled, almost meaty black olives — the kind that come dressed in oil and herbs — aren’t dried. They’re dry-salt cured, the simplest method of all, and the most concentrated.

How it works

Take fully ripe black olives and pack them in coarse salt, layer on layer, in a perforated container so liquid can drain. Over a few weeks the salt draws out moisture and bitterness together, shrivelling the fruit into a wrinkled, glossy, intensely flavoured olive. Stir or re-layer occasionally; the olives weep dark juice as they cure. Then rinse off the surface salt.

The taste, and the styles

The result is deep, slightly bitter and richly olive-y — far more concentrated than a brined olive, because nothing dilutes it. This is the method behind Moroccan ‘oil-cured’ olives and Greek Throuba styles. Finish them in olive oil with garlic, citrus zest, chilli or thyme and they keep for weeks.

Best on the small, ripe ones

Dry-salting suits small, fleshy, fully ripe black olives best; big watery ones don’t shrink as gracefully. It’s a wonderful winter project — minimal effort, just salt and time — and the payoff is an olive with twice the punch of anything in a jar.

A olives101 how-to.