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Crostini With Tapenade and Ricotta

Crostini topped with ricotta and dark olive tapenade

Some of the best things you can put in front of guests take five minutes. Crostini layered with cool ricotta, salty olive tapenade and a final thread of good oil is one of them — the creamy and the briny meeting on a crisp edge of toast. The trick, as ever with simple food, is the quality of each part.

Building the crostini

Slice a baguette or rustic loaf on the diagonal, brush the slices lightly with olive oil, and toast or grill them until crisp and just golden — you want crunch, not concrete. Let them cool a touch. Spread each with fresh ricotta, the best you can find: cool, milky and soft. Top with a modest spoon of tapenade — the Provençal paste of black olives, capers, anchovy and oil — spread thin, because it’s intense. Finish each one with a thread of good extra virgin and, if you like, a few grinds of pepper or a torn basil leaf. Serve straight away, while the toast is still crisp under its toppings.

Balance is everything

This works because of contrast: the cool, mild ricotta tempering the dark, salty punch of the tapenade, both lifted by the fruity oil. So go easy on the tapenade — a thin layer is plenty, and too much drowns the cheese. Use a tapenade made with real olives and good oil, not a greasy, over-salted jar; or make your own by pulsing pitted black olives, a few capers, an anchovy, a little garlic and olive oil to a coarse paste. The final drizzle of oil isn’t optional — it’s what ties the creamy and the briny together and carries the whole bite.

Make-ahead, sort of

You can toast the bread and make the tapenade hours ahead, but assemble at the last minute — ricotta on warm toast too early goes soggy. Bring the ricotta to cool room temperature for the best texture, and keep a good finishing oil by the board. If the tapenade is very salty, skip extra salt entirely; the olives and anchovy have it covered.

Method from general home cooking; tapenade is a traditional Provençal preparation.