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Italy’s Record Haul at the 2021 Competition

June 1, 2021 3 min read Lire en français →

In 2021, a record 115 Italian producers, from 18 of the country’s 20 regions, won at the world competition — after one of the hardest seasons on record. It is the strongest argument there is against judging Italian oil by its big supermarket brands.

Italian olive grove

115
Italian winners
18 of 20
regions represented
Record
national high
2020
a brutal season
Small growers
the real Italy

Competition data showed 115 Italian producers, from 18 of Italy’s 20 regions, winning awards in 2021 — a national record. The wins came despite a brutal 2020 season of bad weather and a pandemic-hampered harvest. That combination — a record haul in a terrible year, spread across almost the whole country — tells you something the supermarket shelf hides: the real strength of Italian oil is not a handful of famous brands, but a vast, diverse patchwork of small growers.

Why the supermarket brand misleads

Most people meet Italian olive oil as a cheap bottle under a famous industrial name — often a blend, sometimes of oils imported from several countries and merely bottled in Italy. Judge the whole country by that and you would think Italian oil is nothing special. The 2021 awards say the opposite: the quality lives out in the regions, with the small producers and native varieties that never make it onto a supermarket end-cap.

18 regions, scores of varieties

The real Italy is an olive map of astonishing variety — Coratina in Puglia, Moraiolo in Tuscany and Umbria, Nocellara in Sicily, Taggiasca in Liguria, and dozens more, each with its own character. That 18 of 20 regions won in a single year is the point: this is not a one-region wonder but a nationwide craft. Exploring it by region and variety, through the encyclopedia, tells you far more than any brand ever will.

Quality is a choice, even in a bad year

The other lesson is timing. These wins followed a genuinely awful 2020 — bad weather, a pandemic-disrupted harvest — and still the medals came. That is because quality is made by decisions, not just weather: careful picking, fast cold milling, good storage. A hard year cuts the yield, but a good grower can still press superb oil from what the trees give. Look past the famous flag to the region, the estate and the variety.

Buying real Italian oil

  • Ignore the famous industrial brand; look for a named estate or region.
  • Learn a few native varieties — Coratina, Moraiolo, Nocellara, Taggiasca — and buy by them.
  • Treat a medal plus a harvest date as worth more than any national reputation.
  • Remember ‘Bottled in Italy’ is not the same as grown in Italy.
  • A hard harvest year can still yield world-class oil — quality is a choice.

Italy’s 2021 record: common questions

What was Italy’s 2021 record?

A record 115 Italian producers, from 18 of the country’s 20 regions, won awards at the world competition — the most Italy had ever achieved in a single year.

Why is that impressive?

It came after a brutal 2020 of bad weather and a pandemic-disrupted harvest, and it spread across almost the entire country — showing depth of quality far beyond a few famous brands.

Does a famous supermarket brand mean good Italian oil?

Not necessarily. Many are blends, sometimes of imported oils merely bottled in Italy. The real quality lives with small regional producers and native varieties.

Which Italian varieties should I look for?

Coratina, Moraiolo, Nocellara and Taggiasca are good starting points, among dozens of native cultivars, each with its own character across Italy’s regions.

Can a bad harvest year still make great oil?

Yes. A hard year cuts yield, but careful picking, fast cold milling and good storage still produce superb oil. Quality is made by decisions, not just weather.

From the trade

This is the best argument I know against judging Italian oil by its big-brand supermarket reputation. The real Italy is 18 regions of small growers and scores of native varieties — Coratina, Moraiolo, Nocellara, Taggiasca and dozens more — pressing world-class oil even in a terrible year. The cheap famous bottle is often a blend that merely passed through Italy on its way to you. Look past the famous flag to the region, the estate and the variety, and you meet a completely different, far better country of oil.

Drawn from 2021 competition results showing a record number of Italian winners across 18 of the country’s 20 regions.