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Kitchen

Chicken drumsticks with green olives & balsamic vinegar

August 18, 2007 4 min read

Green olives, lemon and balsamic turn a tray of cheap drumsticks into something that tastes considered. It is a one-pan roast that mostly cooks itself, and the olives are not a garnish — their salt and brine season the whole dish from the inside.

Serves 4
one traybake
200°C
390°F
45–50 min
roasting time
Green olives
firm & briny
Balsamic
sweet-sour glaze

Drumsticks are the thrifty cook’s friend — cheap, hard to overcook, and happy to sit in a hot oven while you get on with something else. Give them green olives, lemon and balsamic and they turn savoury, sticky and a little sharp, the kind of tray you set down in the middle of the table. The olives here are working ingredients, not decoration: their brine seasons the meat and cuts the sweetness of the vinegar.

What you need

Twelve chicken drumsticks, a couple of hundred grams of drained green olives, two large lemons, about two-thirds of a cup of balsamic vinegar, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, two crushed garlic cloves, and salt and pepper. Roasted small potatoes on the side turn it into a full dinner. That is the whole shopping list, and none of it is fussy.

Method

Heat the oven to 200 °C (390 °F) and lightly grease a roasting pan. Lay the drumsticks in a single layer and scatter the olives over them. Cut one lemon into thin wedges and tuck them between the drumsticks. Juice the other lemon and whisk about a quarter-cup of that juice with the balsamic, oil, garlic, salt and pepper, then pour it over the tray. Roast for 45 to 50 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and glazed. Serve with the potatoes and spoon the pan juices over everything.

Choosing the green olive

This dish wants a firm, briny green olive that will hold up through a long roast, not a soft one that dissolves. A plain green Spanish-style olive, or a meaty Greek green such as Halkidiki, is ideal. You can use them whole with the stones in, which keeps them firm and flavourful — just warn everyone at the table — or buy them pitted for convenience, accepting they will go a little softer. Avoid anything pre-stuffed; the balsamic and lemon are all the seasoning this needs.

Make it ahead, and the balsamic trick

This is a genuinely good make-ahead dish. Roasted and cooled, the drumsticks freeze well in a single layer for several weeks; thaw overnight in the fridge and reheat gently, covered, so they do not dry out. One tip on the vinegar: cheap balsamic can turn harsh and thin in a hot oven, so if yours is very acidic, hold back a little and add a spoonful at the end for brightness. The olives and lemon carry the savour; the balsamic is there to glaze, not to dominate.

Green olive Character In this dish
Spanish-style (e.g. Manzanilla) Firm, briny, mild Reliable all-rounder
Halkidiki (Greek) Large, meaty, crisp Holds up beautifully
Stuffed / marinated Pre-seasoned, soft Skip — competes with the glaze
  • Use firm, briny green olives that survive a long roast.
  • Keep the stones in for flavour, or use pitted and expect them softer.
  • Cook drumsticks in a single layer so they glaze rather than steam.
  • If your balsamic is sharp, hold a little back and finish with it.
  • It freezes well — a good batch-cook for the week.

Chicken drumsticks with green olives: common questions

Which green olives work best?

Firm, briny ones that hold their shape through a long roast — a Spanish-style Manzanilla or a meaty Greek Halkidiki. Avoid soft, pre-stuffed or heavily marinated olives, which compete with the balsamic.

Should the olives be pitted?

Unpitted olives stay firmer and more flavourful, but you must warn diners about the stones. Pitted is more convenient and fine — just expect them a little softer after roasting.

Can I use thighs instead of drumsticks?

Yes. Bone-in, skin-on thighs work the same way and stay juicy. Keep them in a single layer and check they are cooked through before serving.

My balsamic tasted harsh — what went wrong?

Cheap balsamic can turn thin and sharp in a hot oven. Use a little less in the tray and add a spoonful at the end for brightness, letting the olives and lemon carry the savour.

Can I make it ahead or freeze it?

Yes. It freezes well in a single layer for several weeks. Thaw overnight in the fridge and reheat gently, covered, so the chicken stays moist.

From the trade

The olive choice is the whole game. A firm, briny green olive — stones in if your guests can cope — seasons the meat and balances the sweet-sour balsamic; a soft or pre-stuffed one just turns to mush and muddies the tray. And go easy on cheap balsamic: it sharpens in a hot oven, so hold a little back and add it at the end. Let the olives and lemon do the seasoning.

A house recipe built around firm green table olives; olive guidance from the trade.