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Spain Writes a School Diploma for Olive Oil and Wine

August 13, 2009 3 min read
The interior of a modern olive mill: blue Pieralisi framework, stainless malaxers and horizontal decanter centrifuges, with fresh oil running into a steel tub.

Spain has published the syllabus for a two year school diploma in olive oils and wines: 2,000 hours, of which 400 are spent working in a real mill or winery, with a tasting room among the minimum facilities a school must have. It reads like a dull official document and it is actually a statement about where the industry thinks its problem is.

What was published

The education ministry’s order setting the curriculum appeared in the official gazette on August 12. It fills out a qualification created last November, the intermediate vocational diploma of Technician in Olive Oils and Wines, which replaced two older qualifications from 1997, one for making oils and juices and one for making wine. The new title merges them and rebuilds the content.

The course runs 2,000 hours across two academic years. Of that, 400 hours are workplace training, done in a company after the student has passed everything taught in the school. The modules include raw materials and products of the olive, wine and drinks industries at 200 hours, extraction of olive oils at 225 hours, winemaking, sensory analysis, food handling, and a unit on running a business.

What they will actually learn

The detail of the extraction module is the part a grower will recognize. It covers reception of fruit at the mill, maintenance and setting of equipment, selection, cleaning and washing, continuous sampling and weighing, and specifically the influence of how the olives are stored on the quality of the oil. That last item is the single most common quality failure in the trade: good fruit left in heaps or sacks while it waits its turn.

It also covers what comes out of the back of a mill rather than the front. Pomace and its second centrifugation, the extraction of pomace oil with solvents, and the treatment of mill wastewater, its characteristics and its polluting power. Anyone who thinks olive oil is a romantic business should read a syllabus that devotes a section to effluent.

The sensory module is the other half of the argument. Students prepare a tasting room and learn the environmental conditions it needs, use profile sheets, study how panels are formed and trained, and learn the positive and negative attributes of olive oils. Schools that want to teach this course must have, at minimum, a tasting room of 80 square meters for a class of 30, a workshop combining a mill and a winery of 180 square meters, and a laboratory of 120 square meters.

Why a diploma is worth noticing

Spain makes more olive oil than anyone, and for decades the skills that made it were passed down inside families and cooperatives. That works when the technology is stable. It works much less well after three decades in which mills moved from presses to continuous centrifuge systems, added temperature control, and had to learn that oil is a fresh juice with a shelf life rather than a preserved good.

  • A formal qualification gives a mill a way to hire someone who already understands malaxation temperature and sanitation.
  • Teaching tasting in school builds the pool of people who can staff official panels later.
  • Combining oil and wine in one diploma reflects how rural employment actually works in Spain, where the same worker often does both seasons.

The trade’s chronic complaint is that the difference between a fine oil and a mediocre one is decided in about 36 hours, between picking and milling, by people who are paid least and trained least. This is an attempt to fix that at the source. If you want the short version of what those hours involve, we have set it out in how olive oil is pressed and in how olive oil is made, from the tree to the bottle.

What the sellers don’t tell you

Ask a mill two questions and you will learn more than any label can tell you: how long between picking and milling, and at what temperature the paste is worked. Under a day and under 27 degrees Celsius is the careful answer. Mills that are proud of the answer volunteer it. Mills that talk about tradition instead are usually describing a queue of fruit in the yard.

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