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Olives

The Olive Crosses the Atlantic to the Americas

January 16, 2017 4 min read Lire en français →

The olive is so tied to the Mediterranean that it is easy to forget it is an immigrant everywhere else. It crossed the Atlantic in the sixteenth century in Spanish hands, carried as cuttings and seed alongside vines and wheat — the staples a Catholic colony could not do without.

Old olive tree in a colonial-era courtyard in the Americas

16th c.
the crossing
Spain
who carried it
Peru first
where it took
1560
Lima planting
1769
first California mission

Every olive tree in the Americas descends from an immigrant. The plant is native to the Mediterranean basin and the Levant, and it reached the New World only because Spanish colonists needed it badly enough to carry it across an ocean. The story of how it travelled — and how narrowly it survived — is a good deal more precarious than the sprawling groves of modern California or Argentina suggest.

Why Spain brought the tree

The first motive was not cuisine but the altar and the table. Olive oil was needed for cooking, for lamps and for the sacraments; the Church required it. Rather than ship every drop across the ocean, the Spanish crown wanted groves in the colonies. Cuttings travelled to the Caribbean first, where the tropical climate defeated them, then south to Peru, where they finally thrived in the dry coastal valleys. The best-known planting is Lima’s: around 1560 the settler Antonio de Rivera is said to have brought olive saplings from Seville, of which only a few survived the voyage — and from that tiny stock a whole South American olive culture eventually grew.

Where it took and where it didn’t

The olive is fussy. It wants long dry summers, mild winters and a real cold spell to set fruit — the Mediterranean climate, in short. The tropics killed it; the right valleys of South America suited it perfectly. From Peru the tree spread down the dry Pacific coast into what is now Chile and Argentina. Spain, protecting its own oil exports, at times discouraged colonial production, but the trees were already in the ground and quietly multiplying. Much later, from 1769, Franciscan missionaries carried the olive north into Alta California, planting it at Mission San Diego de Alcalá and the missions that followed — the origin of the ‘Mission’ olive still grown there today.

The narrow gene pool nobody mentions

Here is the part the romantic story leaves out. Because so few cuttings survived each leg of the journey, many old New World groves trace back to a startlingly small founding stock — a handful of trees, in some accounts. That makes the lineage narrow but deeply adapted: centuries of local selection in Peruvian and Chilean valleys produced table olives noticeably bigger and softer than their Spanish ancestors. They are not a different species, just a long experiment in a new home. Buy them as their own thing, rather than judging them against the Mediterranean originals.

Native range The Mediterranean basin and the Levant
Carried by Spanish colonists, 16th century onward
Failed first in The tropical Caribbean — wrong climate
Took hold in The dry coastal valleys of Peru (Lima planting c. 1560)
Spread to Chile and Argentina down the Pacific coast
Reached California From 1769, via Franciscan missions (San Diego first)
Legacy variety The ‘Mission’ olive of California, from that mission stock

Reading a New World olive

  • Every American olive is an immigrant — there are no native New World olives.
  • The tree needed a Mediterranean climate; it died in the tropics and thrived in dry coastal valleys.
  • Many old groves descend from a tiny founding stock of surviving cuttings.
  • South American table olives are often bigger and softer — local selection, not a different species.
  • California’s Mission olive traces directly to the Franciscan mission plantings.

The olive in the Americas: common questions

Is the olive native to the Americas?

No. It is native to the Mediterranean and the Levant, and was carried to the New World by Spanish colonists from the sixteenth century onward.

Why did the Spanish bring olives?

Chiefly for oil — needed for cooking, lamps and the Church’s sacraments. Growing it locally saved shipping every drop across the Atlantic.

Where did the olive first thrive in the Americas?

In the dry coastal valleys of Peru, around Lima, after the tropical Caribbean had killed the first attempts. A famous early planting dates to about 1560.

How did olives reach California?

Later and from the south — Franciscan missionaries carried the tree north from about 1769, planting it at Mission San Diego de Alcalá and the missions that followed.

Why are South American table olives different?

Centuries of local selection from a narrow founding stock produced bigger, softer olives. They are the same species as their Spanish ancestors, just long adapted to a new home.

From the trade

If you taste a South American table olive and find it bigger and softer than a Spanish one, that is centuries of local selection at work, not a different species. Many old Peruvian and Chilean groves trace back to a small handful of imported cuttings, so the genetic stock is narrow but deeply adapted. Buy them as their own thing rather than judging them against the Mediterranean originals — a good Peruvian black olive is not a failed Spanish one, it is a four-hundred-year-old local success.

Drawn from standard histories of the Spanish colonial introduction of the olive to Peru, Chile, Argentina and the California missions.