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Italy Fears Running Out of Oil by April

February 21, 2019 4 min read Lire en français →

After its worst harvest in a quarter-century, Italy faced the strange prospect of running out of its own olive oil by spring, with prices already climbing. It is the clearest possible lesson in how concentrated, and how misunderstood, ‘Italian’ oil really is.

A bottle of extra virgin olive oil

25-year low
the harvest that failed
~+31%
how far prices rose
By April
when stocks could run dry
Xylella
a bacterium in Puglia
Bottled in Italy
not always grown there

Italy’s catastrophic crop that year — a 25-year low — left the country at risk of exhausting its own domestic supplies by spring, and pushed prices up by roughly a third. The collapse was blamed on extreme weather and the spread of a destructive bacterium in the south. Let the headline sink in: Italy, a byword for olive oil, briefly short of its own. The reasons why are more revealing than the shortage itself.

A concentrated, exposed crop

Italy’s olive oil leans heavily on a few regions, with the south — Puglia above all — producing a large share of the national crop. Concentration like that is efficient in a good year and dangerous in a bad one: when the weather turns and disease spreads in the same heartland, a big chunk of the country’s supply can fail at once. A crop spread thinly across many climates is resilient; one concentrated in a single vulnerable region is not.

The Xylella factor

Part of the collapse was not weather at all but disease. Xylella fastidiosa, a bacterium spread by sap-feeding insects, has killed or crippled vast numbers of olive trees in Puglia, including ancient ones that had cropped for centuries. Unlike a drought, this damage does not lift with the next rain — infected trees decline and die, and replanting takes years. It is a slow structural blow to Italian production, layered on top of the year-to-year weather.

Why ‘Italian’ oil is often not Italian

Here is the part worth remembering long after this particular shortage. A great deal of the oil sold as ‘Italian’ is imported, blended and bottled in Italy rather than grown there — Italy imports enormous quantities of oil from Spain, Greece, Tunisia and beyond to bottle under Italian brands. That is exactly why the country could be short of its own harvest while still shipping ‘Italian’ oil: the label often certifies where a bottle was filled, not where its olives grew.

Cause What it did to supply
A 25-year-low harvest Left Italy short of its own oil by spring
Concentration in the south Let one region’s failure hit the whole crop
Xylella in Puglia A slow, structural loss of trees
‘Bottled in Italy’ Kept ‘Italian’ oil flowing from imports
  • Even Italy can run short of its own harvest in a bad year.
  • A crop concentrated in one region fails all at once.
  • Xylella is a slow, structural blow, not a passing bad year.
  • Much ‘Italian’ oil is bottled, not grown, in Italy.

Italy’s olive-oil shortage: common questions

How could Italy run out of its own olive oil?

After its worst harvest in 25 years, domestic supplies were at risk of running dry by spring. Italy’s crop is concentrated in a few regions, so a bad year there hits national supply hard.

What caused the collapse?

A combination of extreme weather and the spread of the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa in Puglia, a region that produces much of the national crop.

What is Xylella?

A bacterium spread by sap-feeding insects that kills or cripples olive trees, including ancient ones. Its damage is slow and structural — infected trees decline and die, and replanting takes years.

If Italy was short, how was ‘Italian’ oil still sold?

Because much oil sold as Italian is imported from Spain, Greece, Tunisia and elsewhere, then blended and bottled in Italy. The label often shows where it was bottled, not where the olives grew.

What should a shopper take from this?

Read the origin, not just the flag on the front. ‘Bottled in Italy’ is not the same as ‘grown in Italy’, and a named single origin tells you far more.

From the trade

Let it sink in : Italy, a byword for olive oil, briefly short of its own. It’s the clearest sign of how a concentrated, climate-and-disease-exposed crop can swing from plenty to scarcity in a single bad year — and a reminder that a lot of ‘Italian’ oil is imported, blended and bottled there, not grown there. The label often tells you where the bottle was filled, not where the olives grew.

Drawn from reporting on Italy’s 25-year-low harvest and the spread of Xylella in Puglia.