olives101OLIVE NEWS & INFORMATION

The olive branches out

Once you had to special-order and import them; now the olive tree is the fashionable garden’s favourite accessory. Evergreen, silvery, light-leaved and slow to outgrow a small space, it has become a city-courtyard staple — but a living tree is not a piece of furniture, and it pays to know its habits.

Evergreen
silver leaves
Small space
stays manageable
Hardy-ish
to a point
Slow
gains little each year
Pot or ground
both work

Not long ago a decent ornamental olive was hard to come by — garden designers had to order them in and have them shipped from the Mediterranean. Today they are everywhere, prized by city dwellers for the same reasons designers first fell for them: they are evergreen but open and light, their silvery leaves catch and throw the light, and they stay small enough for a courtyard or a large pot. As one designer put it, there are very few small garden trees that actually stay small — and the olive is one of them.

Why they suit small gardens

The olive’s great virtue as an ornamental is restraint. It grows slowly, adds little each year, and will happily sit at roughly the height you bought it for a long time — which is exactly what you want in a courtyard or against a wall where a fast, greedy tree would quickly become a problem. Buy it at the size you want rather than hoping a small one fills the space soon; that patience is the whole point of the plant. Its evergreen silver also earns its keep in winter, when everything around it has gone bare and brown.

The catch nobody mentions: cold and wet

Here is what the fashion shots leave out. An olive is a Mediterranean tree, and while a mature specimen shrugs off a light frost, a hard, prolonged freeze can kill or badly scorch it — and cold, soggy roots in winter are more dangerous than the cold air. The single most common way people kill an ornamental olive is not frost but waterlogging: a pot with no drainage, heavy wet compost, feet standing in a saucer of water. Sharp drainage, a gritty mix and a sheltered, sunny spot matter far more than any amount of feeding.

Fruit, or the lack of it

Do not buy an ornamental olive for a harvest. Outside a genuinely warm climate it may flower and set a few fruit in a good year, but they will usually be sparse, small and not worth curing — and in a cool, damp summer you may get none at all. Treat any olives as a bonus, not a crop. If you want the tree for its looks, that is exactly what it is best at; if you want oil or table fruit, you need the right variety, the right climate and a great many more trees.

Care point Do Avoid
Position Full sun, sheltered from hard wind Deep shade or a frost pocket
Soil / compost Gritty, free-draining mix Heavy, water-holding compost
Watering Deep but infrequent; let it dry out Constant damp or a waterlogged saucer
Winter Shelter or fleece in a hard freeze Assuming it is fully hardy everywhere
Pruning Light shaping to keep it open Hard, frequent cutting for a crop

Buying and growing tips

  • Buy it at the size you want — it grows slowly and will hold that height for years.
  • Prioritise drainage over feeding; wet roots kill more olives than cold does.
  • Give it the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have.
  • Enjoy the foliage; treat any fruit as a happy accident, not a harvest.

Ornamental olive trees: common questions

Are olive trees good for small gardens?

Yes — they are evergreen, silvery and slow-growing, so they stay manageable in a courtyard or large pot. Buy one at the height you want.

Are olive trees hardy?

A mature olive tolerates light frost, but a hard, prolonged freeze can damage or kill it. Cold, wet roots are the bigger danger — shelter it and keep it well drained.

Can I grow an olive tree in a pot?

Yes, very well — just use a gritty, free-draining mix, a pot with good drainage, and water deeply but let it dry between waterings.

Will my ornamental olive produce olives?

Maybe a few in a warm year, but usually sparse and not worth curing outside a hot climate. Grow it for its looks and treat fruit as a bonus.

How much should I water an olive tree?

Deep but infrequent watering is best. Let the soil dry out between waterings; constant damp and waterlogging are the commonest cause of death.

From the trade

The olive earns its fashionable reputation honestly — it is a lovely, low, silver-leaved evergreen that stays put. But treat it as a plant, not a prop. The people who lose theirs almost never lose them to a dramatic frost; they lose them to a saucer of standing water and a bag of heavy compost. Give it sharp drainage, full sun and shelter, water it hard but rarely, and it will outlast most of the trendier things in the garden. And forget the harvest — buy it for the leaves, and any olives are a gift.

Drawn from garden-design practice and the horticulture of Mediterranean olive trees grown ornamentally.