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Kitchen

Lemon and olive chicken with potatoes

April 12, 2007 4 min read

This is a weeknight favourite: garlic-and-lemon chicken thighs, salty black olives and crisp roast potatoes, brought together in one pan. It rests entirely on two things — decent olives and a decent bottle of oil.

Serves 4
portions
~45 min
start to plate
Thighs
the right cut
Kalamata
the olive
One pan
the whole idea

There is a whole family of Mediterranean suppers built on the same trio: chicken, lemon and olives. It works because the three balance each other — the richness of the thigh, the sharpness of the lemon, the salty depth of the olive — and because none of them needs much doing to it. Use boneless, skinless chicken thighs rather than breast: they stay juicy, they take on garlic and lemon beautifully, and they forgive a distracted cook. Everything below is a method, not a rulebook.

Ingredients (serves 4)

  • 600g small new potatoes, quartered lengthways
  • Extra virgin olive oil, for the potatoes and the pan
  • 8 small boneless, skinless chicken thigh fillets (about 750g), trimmed
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • A generous handful (about half a cup) of Kalamata or good black olives
  • A small handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Salt and black pepper
  • To serve: steamed green beans and a spoonful of tzatziki

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 220°C. Toss the potatoes with a little oil and salt, spread on a tray and roast for about 20 minutes, until golden and tender.
  2. Meanwhile, mix a tablespoon of oil, the garlic, half the lemon juice and some pepper in a bowl. Turn the chicken through it and leave for 10 minutes if you have time.
  3. Heat a splash of oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the chicken and cook 2-3 minutes a side, until golden and nearly cooked through.
  4. Add the olives and cook another minute over medium heat, just to warm them and release their oil.
  5. Off the heat, stir in the parsley and the rest of the lemon juice. Taste, and season.
  6. Plate the chicken and olives with the roast potatoes and beans, with tzatziki alongside.

The olive is not a garnish

The one thing people get wrong is treating the olives as decoration thrown on at the end. Warm them in the pan for a minute and they change: they soften, give up a little of their oil into the sauce, and turn from a salty accent into part of the dish. Buy them unpitted and with a stone if you can — they hold flavour better — and stone them yourself, or warn your guests. A cheap sliced ‘black olive’ from a can will taste of nothing here; a proper Kalamata makes the plate.

Oil in, oil on

Use a plain, robust olive oil for the roasting and frying, where heat would waste anything delicate, and keep a peppery extra virgin for a final drizzle at the table. That two-oil habit — a workhorse for cooking, a good bottle for finishing — is the single most useful thing a home cook can learn about olive oil, and it costs nothing but a moment’s thought.

Swap Instead of Try
Olive Canned sliced black Kalamata or a firm Greek black
Herb Parsley Oregano, dill or mint
Acid Lemon Preserved lemon, chopped fine
Cut Breast Boneless thigh (juicier)
Side Beans A simple tomato salad

Cook’s notes

  • Thighs, not breast — they stay moist and forgive timing.
  • Warm the olives in the pan; do not just scatter them raw.
  • Add half the lemon at the end so it stays fresh and bright.
  • Cook in a plain oil; finish at the table with a good extra virgin.

Lemon and olive chicken: common questions

Which olives work best?

A firm, tasty Greek black olive such as Kalamata. Avoid soft canned sliced olives, which add salt but little flavour.

Can I use chicken breast?

You can, but thighs stay far juicier and take on the garlic and lemon better. If you use breast, cook it more gently to avoid drying it out.

Should the olives be pitted?

Unpitted olives keep more flavour, so stone them yourself if you can — or leave them whole and warn everyone at the table.

What oil should I cook it in?

A plain, sturdy olive oil for roasting and frying. Save a peppery extra virgin for a drizzle at the table, where its flavour survives.

Can I make it ahead?

Roast the potatoes and marinate the chicken ahead, but cook the chicken and olives just before serving so the meat stays juicy and the lemon bright.

From the trade

The mistake I see again and again is a good dish let down by a bad olive — those pale, rubbery canned slices that taste of brine and nothing else. This recipe lives or dies on the olive, so spend the small extra on real Kalamata and warm them through the pan. And keep two oils in the kitchen: a plain one to cook with, a good one to finish with. Do those two things and a simple supper tastes like you tried much harder than you did.

An original house recipe in the Mediterranean chicken-lemon-olive tradition.